Finished match drilling flap skins - 1 hour

Last little bit of work left to do on the flaps was to match drill the rear area when the skins overlap. Very important note here is that this edge will need to be edge rolled before dimpling. So make a mental note.

As you can see I use check marks to help distinguish what holes have been drilled and which have not. 





 All done.

Countersunk the flap spar and fitted the top skin - 2.5 hours

Since my microstop countersink was set up still from the main spar countersink. Moving on to the countersink on the flap spar was quick.


I ended up with a countersink diameter similar to that as used on the outboard skin of the wing spar.
I then fitted the top skin.

That's good enough for an evening's work. Time to call it a day.

Fitting the flap hinge - 2 hours

Fitting the hinge on the flap is fairly easy. After some time looking for the hinges that I tucked away 8 months ago, I finally found them and drug them out.
I used an edge marking tool to measure in 1/4" on each side as noted on the plans.

Next I clamped the hinge onto the flap assembly and checked that the line match up through the holes. After double checking that my hinge alignment was consistent with what is shown on the plans. I began to drill and cleco, re-checking alignment as I worked from the center to the ends.






Here is where my alignment ended up on the outboard rib.




and the other flap
 
 Well...Enough for the weekend. I am airplane'd out.
 

Debur and dimple the skins - 4 hours

A majority of the skin prep time was spend yesterday. Today I just needed to debur and to dimple. Takes some time, but in the end it is straight forward. The deburing when quick, then it was a matter of dimpling. Of course the smaller inboard skins can be done solo, but the longer outboard skins required an extra hand.

I temporary cleco'd them on the wing to get them out of the way.

I was sure not to dimple the spots that are to be drilled in the future for the wing root fairing.

But all in all, it looked great.

Devinyl and edge prep the skins - 7 hours

Well just when you had enough of dimpling and deburring when finishing the wing structure. Now you need to do the same for the wing skins. A very long a tedious process. But if there is some good music or some Netflix on the laptop. Time just passes by.

First I started by working the edges of the skins with a file to clear the shear marks off.

Next was the very boring and lengthy process to devinyl the skins



Now...I then dug out the 3M wheel on the die grinder and worked the edges smooth (doesn't take much, just a light once or twice over). Then I worked each corner with a file to round the edge. Thanks to my buddy mike he showed me a technique to help ensure a nice round edge. The technique is hard to describe (much better to see it). Essentially you push into the turn as you make it....so for example push the file left as you work the corner towards the right and back into you. Most folks drag the file with the direction that your turning. Increased the chance of an oblong fillet. Takes a little bit of technique but the fillets look great!
 
Once I was done, I then rubbed down each edge and corner with maroon scotchbrite. 
Next I pulled out the files and started the 'scarf joint'. Essentially you work the corner of each material (where they mate) so that the thickness between the two pieces are not stacked, but there is a transition. This goes fairly easily with a file. But be sure to make sure you keep the file flat to the piece.

Next was I pulled out my edge forming tool and worked the edge of each skin that meets the leading edge, and worked the edge of the outboard skin that overlaps the inboard skin. 

Here's a fun little tool

Went over to Mike's for a BBQ after work. When showing me some of the cool parts for the Stewart S-51 (works of art by the way!!) A cool little tool caught my eye.

What is it. Well...I picked it up and noticed right away that the 'hole' was about the same size as my mushroom head rivet set, but I couldn't figure out how or where it was used/placed.

Well with a big grin Mike showed my what it is used for.


It's used to keep the rivet gun in place when bucking solo.

What a cool little tool!!! Now I want one!!!!

And just a little more debur and countersink - 3.5 hours

Well this morning I found myself really questioning the dimpling of the inboard ribs. I had dimpled all the holes on the rib yesterday. The plans on drawing #12 to leave certain holes un-riveted for future attachment of the wing root fairing. Well of course I interpret this as dimple it all and not rivet some holes.

So after I did some checking on the forums this are seems to be a bit of a tricky area for some builders. First off the holes noted to be left open do not match between drawing #12 and #38. Next issue is do you not dimple these areas, or do you drill and dimple them now. Well...more reading on the forums and a message sent to Wirejock (Larry Larson) I think I have it figured out.

I've decided that drawing #38 is the correct drawing for locations. Everyone says "about every third hole". Ok...That's settled. Next Wirejock recommended leaving the hole undimpled and keep the #40 pilot hole. He said that I will use these holes to cleco on the fairing later.  Good enough for me!

So...Of course I had to flatten out the necessary dimpled holes on the left wing rib that I had done yesterday. Not a big deal as you typically can flatten a small dimple without structural issue. Better yet, down the road I will have to drill open these holes to a larger diameter anyway so its totally fine in the end no mater what.

Once I had the left wing fixed up. I needed to complete the few countersink holes and rib dimples that where left on the right wing. I then cleaned, masked off the front and rear spar and primed.

While I waited for the primer to dry, I prep'd the right leading edge skin (debur, edge roll, and dimpled) same as yesterday.