Started final fitting of the filter/gascolator on the doubler - 2 hours

 Now that the hole has been cut for the filter/gascolator safety button has been drilled. I can re-install the safety button in the unit (Mock-ups with the unit are really difficult with that valve button installed so I removed it). 

I opened the mounting holes from 3/32" to #28 for the #6 screws. Then I started in on dimpling the rivet holes. Wow...I didn't anticipate how difficult the access is in this area. I just barely managed to get my pneumatic squeezer in that 2 1/2" opening. I used the squeezer to dimple all the holes I could. 

Finishing the filter/gascolator doubler - 2 hours

 Small night on the build. I took my time to do some final sanding on the large 2 1/2" hole to get the fit of the Aerolab unit just right. 

 Next I used the stainless steel template to make the 5/16" hole for the safety release button. I did not use a drill bit for this hole since I have already cut the 2 1/2" hole...., however the stainless template was a great guide to open up that hole with the use of files and the dremel.  

Making the filter/gascolator doubler - 9 hours

 Big day on the build, but unfortunately not a whole lot of progress. I want to place a doubler under the Aerolab Filter/Gascolator. The floor is thicker aluminum (0.040") however there still is some flex in the floor and that may add stress to the attached rigid fuel lines. My thinking is that a doubler will reduce flex and stress on the fuel system when I'm climbing in and out of the plane and also when servicing the gascolator.

I need to finish setting the correct location of the gascolator based on my new j-tube. It's just a tad further aft than my original position.

 I have the stainless steel template for the gascolator and I am able to drill the exact center of the unit.

Now comes the fun part...I've previously settled on a 0.032" doubler. It allows the bottom of the Aerolab cap to sit perfectly flush with the bottom of the floor skin. I cut out a square doubler shape and started "making" the doubler. 

After placing the template on the doubler, there is no doubt in my mind that this does not look good. First, I don't care for the doubler to be off center, and the round unit on a square rivet pattern just doesnt work. 

After talking with my buddy Mike (A local builder) and diving into the Standard Aircraft Handbook it inspired my to attempt a different doubler and rivet patten. While I won't have the recommended 6D spacing of rivets in all locations. I think the more radial pattern of rivets will work really well.

So I drew the pattern/template on CAD and printed it out. Its looking good. So I then cut a new doubler plate and using the CAD template I drilled all of the holes 3/32". Since the pattern and fit just work...There was no hesitation to start drilling the gascolator mounting holes through the floor skin.

Satisfied with where I am at, its time to drill the 2 1/2" diameter hole for the Aerolab unit. Drilling these holes with a holesaw is always a stressful event. My holesaw is not a precise tool and it likes to wobble...So my method to prevent this is to make a cutting template out of wood. This helps keep the holesaw in the correct location and makes a clean hole. Using 1/4" MDF...I went to work.

The hole in the floor is correct, just need to repeat the same hole in the doubler.

Once done, I am now ready to drill all rivet holes in the doubler/floor skin.

Completing the fuel line from the gascolator to fuel pump - 5 hours

 I purchased a piece of 1/4" MDF as a platform for the fuel pump to set on. It is very close to the correct height of the tunnel cover. I'll save you the long details, but basically Tom's 'samples' provided an excellent model to follow and I was able (after a few tries) to get the right geometry figured out to get a tube bent that fit excellent and also allowed the fuel pump to sit as far aft as I can get it. 

Fitting custom fuel lines from TS flight lines - 2 hours

 My order from TS flightlines arrived and they do look great. I ordered a custom J-tube and an S-Tube to fit the Aerolab gascolator. They do look great and the tight radius are really good. However I soon found that the J-tube interferes with the spar when fitted to the stock position of the fuel selector hole.

My thoughts circled to making a new fuel selector plate and pushing the selector switch forward which then fixes the issue of the spar. However, the J-tube itself is too short in height. The selector plate would have to be lowered quite far to make it work. Looks like its about 3/8" short in height.

Unfortunately I won't be able to use any of these. Its a shame. Tom at TS flightlines was so wonderful to deal with and the workmanship of the tubes is great, but unfortunately his RV setup and mine are just too different.

Tom's pieces did give me the information I could then use to fashion my own custom tubes. Using the now 'samples' I fashioned my own J-tube. And the fit is excellent. Albeit not as tight as Tom can get to but I can work with what I got.

  

Started bolting the right gear weldment - 3 hours

 Checking the final fitting of the right weldment, its looking really good for the interfering rivet. 

I do notice that I have a very slight gap where the forward most flange sits against the side of the fuselage. Its very small, and it way less then the 1/16" maximum allowed by the instructions. I removed the gear and tried my best to tweek the fit to close up the gap. I did make a template for the flange, so if needed I can make a shim if needed in the future. 

As I have the bolt recipe figured out, that part of the installation went really well.    

Started bolting the left gear weldment - 3.5 hours

I need to get the weldments bolted in if I want to start on the fuel system. Can't be bent over reaching into the plane without something sturdy to put my weight on. 

I had some last minute adjustments to make on that pesky rivet interference. Fit wasn't there yet, so out the left weldment came for more filing.  Its ugly, but nobody ever see it and most important it now fits great.

Once I was ready to bolt the weldments in, it becomes very apparent that the hardware callout in the plans is not correct. The AN4-12A bolts with the AN960-416 washer is clearly too short. 

 

Even with the thin AN960-416L washer, its just too short still.

So without question I need to go up a bolt size to AN4-13A. With that, I am now battling the bolt size being just a tad too long. 

I want to be careful that I do not bottom the nuts out on the bolt...and it looks close. So, I ran the scenario of adding an additional thin AN960-416L washer.

At this point its important to note that I do not have a washer under the bolt head with this two scenarios...So then the choice is obvious that the bottom option with two washer is the one to proceed with. An AN4-13A bolt...A AN960-416L washer under the head. Through the weldment and spar. An AN960-416 washer and the nut. The result is perfect. 

 

Getting the washer slipped in behind the weldment on the one hole along the bottom was a true pain the the rear. I ended up making a washer holder out of safety wire and I was then able to slip the washer into place and then slide the bolt in. I make it sound so quick and easy....it wasn't, but it worked.

I used this washer arrangement for all of the weldment holes, except for the one hole that requires the long AN4-34A bolt. That bolt also gave me a bit of grief...it was a tad too long. I added a second AN960-416 washer and that is excellent.

So the weldments are nearly all bolted in. I will drill the sides and bolt those in at a later date.

More riveting on the rear aft top skin - 5 hours

 Its very slow going riveting solo, but I'm really happy with how well its turned out. The fit of the top skin with the fuse is excellent and makes up for me forgetting to edge roll those areas. The first session of riveting I was able to do most of the longeron line on both sides.

After supper I kept going and managed to finish most of the j-stiffener rivets.  By the end, I did all that I could solo...The rest I will need the help of a bucking partner so that I don't screw anything up. (Notice the odd rivets not done on the left side of the longeron?...I still need to make and install the static line clips)

Starter riveting the aft top skin - 3 hours

 This was a difficult decision for me - Do I start riveting the top skins now or leave them for a while? After some research I finally decided that I will rivet the F-775 rear top skin and leave the F-7112 aft top skin off. 

First step is to rivet the F-787 stiffener web to the F-707B angle clip.

 

Next the F-775 rear top skin was cleaco'd on and then I began riveting the aft most rivet line. Always a little tricky to rivet around a curve, but I managed it just fine. 

Priming the Aft Top Skins - 6 hours

Another nice day out, so perfect time to get some priming done. Since the aft top skins are not subjected to wear, I will use the self etching primer as opposed to epoxy primer. 

I cleaned and dimpled all of the top skin parts. Scuffed accordingly and then primed all pieces. Only item that I forgot and I'm really annoyed with myself is that I didn't edge roll the top skins. I've edge rolled everywhere else but not this...darn.

 

The outstanding area that needs to be addressed is on the sides of the fuselage where the aft top skin overlaps the fuselage needs to have some primer applied. So, I took care of it. 

Preparing the aft top skin structure - 2 hours

 Since it was such a nice day out, I wanted to pull the plane out onto the driveway. I’ve been wanting to do that for a very long time. I think at this point is doesn't quite look like a much of a plane yet, but I think it’s cool

Today I choose to start prepping the aft top skin structure. All of the bulkheads where de-burred and primer was touched up. 

Installing the WD-721 gear wedments - 6 hours

 Well don't be fooled..Getting the WD-721 gear weldments installed is not the easiest process for a number of reasons. A while back, I took extra time to make sure the gear weldments fit the spar and all bolt heads before the spar was riveted into the fuse. This involved opening some of the bolt holes very slightly to get everything to fit. Boy I was glad I did that then, because doing it now would be an insane pain in the butt. 

The next hurdle is getting the actual weldments into the fuse. The nutplates on the forward spar interfere and need to be removed. The gear leg holes in the bottom skin are just a tad too tight on my project so I needed to open them up slightly.

 Next fit hurdle is the fit of the downward leg on the weldment. Lots of build logs talk about how theirs interfere with the floor stiffener. Fortunately I don't have an issue with this as others do, however in order to get the welment into place you do need to get the flange slipped behind the floor stiffener. 

It does take a little effort to get the weldment in under the forward flange of the spar. You have to lift on the spar flange a little bit

Now that the weldment is in....comes the most annoying part. The weldment interferes with one of the lower rivets on the side of the fuse. I anticipated the interference when I initially fit the weldments prior to fuse assembly...I did make some notches in the weldments, but apparently not enough.

So out the weldments come....for the hundredth time. And I have to open the notches a bit more. 

 After some work with the files...I have the notches set and the weldments fit tight to the spar. 

 

The weldments are fit....but not entirely bolted to the spar yet. That involves another work session and frankly...I just don't want to look at these again for a while.