So while at work I came up with the idea that I could screw a 2x4 across the bottom of my wing stand and use that as a means to anchor my straps to. This would ensure that I would not damage the top wing skin as well as give a solid piece to ratchet the tank down.
It worked pretty good. I managed to decrease how high the tank wanted to sit proud of the leading edge. It was nearly flush.
Looking around i still could see that the tank skin was not sitting completely tight against the top skin. I could get a fingernail between the skins. The ratcheting action has a tenancy to pull the front, but doesn't want to pull the back as much, hence the gap. I pondered dimpling the skins for the #8 screw attachments now and using them to help align the tank....this is a bit premature in the build stage, and I was concerned that it might trip me up later. I asked the question on Vans Airforce and the suggestion was to go ahead and use #30 celcos in the holes for the #8 screws. I was a tad worried about possibly damaging the threads on the nut plates but that was quickly squashed.
So I began to cleco.
Using both clecos and straps did the trick. I had really nice alignment on the skins and tips as they are now flush. I then match drilled the W-423 joint plate to #30 and cleco'd.
I was now set to drill the baffle to the z-brackets. I started with the inboard end and drilled to #30 with my super long drill bit and cleco'd as I went.
Drilling the inboard end took some thinking. I decided to remove the leading edge assembly, but the W-408 rib is cleco'd to the spar, and there is no way to get to it. So, I simply removed the the W-408 rib and W-423 joint plate from the leading edge assembly and removed the leading edge.
Then, the clecos where accessible so I could remove them. I then removed the W-408 rib and W-423 plate leaving the inboard baffle mounting holes accessible.
Match drilled and cleco'd
Then....I uncleco'd the tank skin and inner ribs from the baffle so I could match drill the baffle to the z-brackets.
