Priming the wing skins - 2 hours

Now that I've done all I can do with the flaps for now, I felt motivated to move back onto the wing structure. I needed to prime the wing skins. I gave the skins a quick wipe with MEK and began to scuff the surfaces with maroon scotch brite. Then I sprayed Alumabrite 215 acid etch on the surfaces needing priming.  I wiped the surfaces clean, and rescuffed with a clean scotch brite pad, and re wiped with MEK. Fortunately it was a really nice day so I could prime outside.

Most important is that I didn't want to prime the mating surface between the wing walk doubler and the wing skin as I intend to apply a thin layer of proseal to the surface. So I cleco'd those to pieces together before I primed to ensure that those surfaces did not get primed.

Building the Flap Cradle - 2 hours

Still wanting to further the flaps, but stalled in progress do to the miss drilled hole in the spar. I jumped on building the cradle for the flaps. I drove over to home depot and picked up some 3/4" plywood. I used the aileron rib to scribe the required angle on the wood, then I clamped two pieces together aligning the edges. 

I made the first initial cuts with a circular saw, and completed the cut in the "V" with a jigsaw.

I then used a couple of 2x3's to form the structure. I decided that the "V" was a little deep so I cut the top of the holder down.



All done. I just need to install some padding on the mating surfaces.

Bending and drilling the FL-706B bracket - 3.5 hours

 Note: Again, as per my previous post, refer to my build tip at the end of this post for the sequence I recommend. After building this portion I would do the sequence differently to ensure a more precise fit.

Next step is to clean up the FL-706B bracket, bend it and then drilling the FL-706A bracket and then drilling that assembly to the flap structure.
 

First thing I did was to fit the FL-706A angle bracket to the FL-706B bracket and drill the holes.

I marked out the bend line on the FL-706B bracket and clamped it in a vice. The plans call for bending it 6.3 degrees!!  Well, its a bit tricky since the material is so thick, but I managed to get really close. After some check, fit, bend, check, fit, I made the pieces work.

Now..this is where things get tricky...This ended up not being the best sequence as now I had a tough time getting the hole for the future flap control rod bearing to align. On the first go round, the holes did not match up well. Fortunately when I swapped the FL-706A angle brackets the holes aligned extremely well. Whew...Dodged a bullet there.

Now that the assemblies where done, I clecoed them to the flap assembly and began to drill the holes into the FL- 703 spar and the FL-704 rib.  Everything went well, except it seems that my first hole for the second flap assembly ended up drilled incorrectly. I thought I had the fit sorted before I drilled....guess not. After re-fitting.. I was about 0.030" out on my hole. Shoot!


 So I have two options now. Order a new spar, and re-use the FL-706A bracket, or make a new FL-706A bracket and re-use the spar (back drill the incorrect hole to the new bracket). Well both options need new parts from Van's.

Build Tip - So in Hindsight. If I redid the flap assembly, I would change the sequence of the build to maximize opportunities for the best possible fit. Sequence is as follows.
Step 1 - After fitting the flap assembly, you start fabricating the FL-706A angle bracket, cut it to the 2 5/8" length, but DO NOT TRIM the 3/4" leg just yet.
Step 2 - Edge prep the FL-706B bracket, bend it to the required 6.3 degrees. Then cleco the bracket to the flap assembly using the hole for the future rod bearing for proper alignment just as the plans call for. 
Step 3 - Start fitting the FL-706A bracket to the FL-706B bracket and the flap assembly with clamps, but do not drill holes just yet. Make sure the bottom edge of FL-706B fits nicely with the skin. Once all looks great. begin to drill the holes for FL-706B into the FL-704 end rib. Cleco all holes. 
Step 4 - Now that the position of FL-706B is locked in. Trace the outline of the bracket onto the FL-706A angle bracket...it will be extremely close to the required 3/4" dimension mentioned in step 1 but will allow you to fine tune the fit so that it is perfect. 
Step 5 - Clamp the FL-706A/FL-706B together and ensure good fitment. Carefully remove assembly, and drill the remaining holes that attach FL-706A/FL-706B in a drill press. Cleco the two pieces together.
Step 6 - Reinstall the pieces on the flap assembly and drill remaining holes that attache FL-706A into the spar. 

In my opinion this sequence gives better opportunity for a precise fit than the sequence that I used for my build.

Fabricating the FL-706A brackets - 3 hours

Note: Refer to my build tips for a better sequence (in my opinion) of fabricating the FL-706A bracket. If I could do this again, I would not cut the 3/4" leg on the angle bracket just yet.

The two step again. I had cut the FL-706A brackets from the stock angle only to realize I cut them too short. Hahah. Oh well. Fortunately Van's gives you a little extra angle. So I was able to cut another two the proper size. Took exactly twice the required time, but I am really getting good at this!

Finished match drilling flap skins - 1 hour

Last little bit of work left to do on the flaps was to match drill the rear area when the skins overlap. Very important note here is that this edge will need to be edge rolled before dimpling. So make a mental note.

As you can see I use check marks to help distinguish what holes have been drilled and which have not. 





 All done.

Countersunk the flap spar and fitted the top skin - 2.5 hours

Since my microstop countersink was set up still from the main spar countersink. Moving on to the countersink on the flap spar was quick.


I ended up with a countersink diameter similar to that as used on the outboard skin of the wing spar.
I then fitted the top skin.

That's good enough for an evening's work. Time to call it a day.

Fitting the flap hinge - 2 hours

Fitting the hinge on the flap is fairly easy. After some time looking for the hinges that I tucked away 8 months ago, I finally found them and drug them out.
I used an edge marking tool to measure in 1/4" on each side as noted on the plans.

Next I clamped the hinge onto the flap assembly and checked that the line match up through the holes. After double checking that my hinge alignment was consistent with what is shown on the plans. I began to drill and cleco, re-checking alignment as I worked from the center to the ends.






Here is where my alignment ended up on the outboard rib.




and the other flap
 
 Well...Enough for the weekend. I am airplane'd out.