More messing the fuel selector - 1 hour

 My Aircraft Spruce order arrived with various AN fittings that I ordered to help with different installation options. I went to work trying the 45deg NPT fitting on the fuel selector. So close, but It won't work. Just about 1/2" too long and this is the tightest/smallest tube I can make. 

I decided to throw in the towel and just make a straight tube. This will ensure that the system will work. It's simple, easily made and can be replaced if needed. The gascolator sits a bit more forward than I want, but it is what it is.

I started to measure and sketch out the gascolator based on this final position, but as I lean into the plane and put some weight on the floor, I notice the floor has some flex/movement to it. If I commit to this setup/placement there is absolutely no give to the fuel tubing to account for any potential vibration or flex that I will have on the floor. It is likely that I will develop fuel leaks at this point. I'm beginning to see the benefit of having that "J hook" shape to the fuel line as it is more forgiving with respect to vibration and floor flex. 

I think I have to bite the bullet and order the proper fuel selector from Vans. Then I can get the exact installation I want. Crap...More money.

Installing the new Almost a 14 end caps - 2.5 hours

 My replacement end caps arrived from Anti-splat. Before when installing, I didn't make sure that these were level to the plane....They were clamped tight to the gusset and the longeron, but that didn't mean they were level across the airframe. 

This time, I installed the endcaps and made certain that they were set parallel and perpendicular to the centerline of the fuselage. I used a straightedge and spent a lot of time measuring and marking. 

Once I was satisfied with that placement, I placed a level across the plane and made certain that the end caps and gusset plate are level (perfectly horizontal). Once satisfied, I used the same drilling technique and template that I used before and finished all of the mounting holes. Note the blue lines showing horizontal level on the front of the end cap and the line on top of the end cap that aligns with the edge of the gusset plate.  

 

Messing with the fuel selector - 1 hour

 I ordered a 90deg fitting for Aircraft spruce to see if using this fitting will work for my setup. I tried bending a double offset tube, but in the end - Nope won't work....the space to work with is just too short. I need much tighter bends. 

I reached out to Tom at TS flightlines to see if he is able to make some custom tubes. I provided him dimensions, but after a couple days of trying things, he confirmed that the space is too tight for anything he can fabricate. (Just an awesome guy by the way. He tried everything).

I did come up with one possibility, but it would require a 45deg fitting at the bottom of the selector. I will need to order a couple more fittings to see if this will work. but it looks promising.

Bending 3/8" fuel tubing for the selector - 8.5 hours

 I am ready to start bending fuel tubing for the fuel selector. The plan is to install an Aerolab filter/gascolator between the fuel selector and the fuel pump. I want to install the filter/gascolator for a few reasons. It is debatable whether the gascolator is still a Canadian requirement (it was in the past, but recent information points it may no longer be required). I want to install one to avoid any issues down the road with Transport Canada wanting one. From a functionality standpoint, I think its wise to install one at the low point just in case there is water ever present in the fuel system. Its placement under the plane not in the engine compartment is a big plus. The fact that it is so easy to access and service from outside the plane is a huge bonus. 

Tom from TS flightlines provided me a sample pic of the type of tube he manufactures for this type of installation on a post I made on Vans Airforce. It will be my guide.

As I have never bent aluminum tubing before....I went to work. I bent a ton of different variations. Learning how to bend the tubes, what shapes I can do with my tools, etc etc. I used 25' of tubing in the end.

I ended up making my J tube. With the tools I have I am basically committed with a particular set of dimensions and minimum radius. The result is a very nice looking J tube, but ultimately the tube is too tall. It doesn't go back far enough to the spar web, but I am not too worried about that. The height is a big problem. 

It becomes very apparent that the NPT thread on the bottom of the selector means that with all the required fittings, valuable space is eaten away resulting in an extremely short amount of space to work with. I tried fabricating a simple 90deg bend to see if that will work. It does work, but it pushes the gascolator and the fuel pump quite forward. The fuel pump doghouse will need to be quite big to cover it all.

I tried everything I could think of to fit the gascolator further back to the spar. I even bent a unique shape tube to get the proper height and offset the gascolator to the side. Its a really desirable option since the fuel connection on my pump is offset to the side. But ultimately this will not work as with the bend radius I can do with my tools pushes the gascolator too far to the side and I would have to cut out the floor stiffener....not an option.

I will keep at trying to figure something out.

Fitting the Andair Fuel Selector - 1 hour

 Since I am waiting for some replacement parts to arrive on the flap assembly. I am moving on to fitting up the fuel selector. I bought an Andair selector a while ago from a local builder. Its similar to the unit that can be purchased from Vans for the RV7, but it has a NPT fuel out, and banjo fittings for the fuel in. 

 

I started drilling the F-983A fuel valve plate to accommodate the fuel selector. I chose to utilize #10 screws as that is the hole size in the Andair fuel selector. 

 

 After drilling the fuel selector, I installed the K1000-3 nutplates. 

Installing the Almost a 14 mod - 8 hours

 I need to install the F-760 side panels on the flap actuator assembly. Its simple enough to install but I notice that I have a slight bow on one of the panels and it doesn't want to sit nice and flush.

I tried to adjust the fit, edge roll the edges of the piece. Finally I managed to get it to sit relatively flat without opening up any mounting holes. That was my last resort. Next I was ready to do the final drilling on the F-785A backrest channel. I clamped the assembly, then drilled. 

I am now ready to officially install the Anti-slat Almost a 14 mod for the seats. I need to cut the F-705J crosspiece out.

 

With the F-705J piece out, I took the time and opportunity to fabricate a template of the rivet pattern.

I also want to have the 1/4" hole on both sides of the endcaps to allow for pitot routing and for wiring. If you are ever looking for information on placement of this hole, you fill find it on Page 317 of the "27 Years of the RVator" From Vans. It was in an article from their build newsletter from 2006. For me, I settled on placing it in the same location as shown in the RVator, and I chose to keep equal distance between three rivets.

Once I have the hole opened up to 1/4" I can now transfer that hole accurately to the F-705D bulkhead sides and the seat mod endcaps. 

Next I was ready to drill the seat mod endcaps to the F-705D bulkhead sides. A WORD OF CAUTION HERE.... Be sure that the end caps are square and level before you drill (use a level and take measurements). I didn't and the right end cap was a little crooked. I'm sure it would have been fine but I'm choosing to replace it. 

First you want to clamp the end caps into place. Make sure that you have a good fit, and the end caps sit level and are square. Using the 90 deg drill, or a drill with a long bit, locate at least one rivet hole and drill to #30.

You can now use the template and drill all remaining rivet holes as well as the 1/4" pitot/wiring hole in the endcaps.

Next I need to cut down the F-760 covers as they interfere with the new center cover. I cut the corners off at 45deg.

 I then slipped the center cover over the flap actuator assembly and noticed the fit wasn't that great. The front mounting holes align, but the side mounting holes do not.

Once I remove the F-767 attach plate, the fit is much better. I have to file a bit off the top of the F-766A channel to get a nice tight fit, but it will work. All I need to do is fabricate a new F-767 attach plate to accommodate the new center cover.

Next I notice that the aft stainless mounting plate doesn't quite fit with the F-785A backrest channel. I have two options...get a new channel, or fabricate a spacer. I think ill do both....I need a new channel as the original mounting holes I drilled are soo close to the new mounting holes for the mounting plate. Also, re-drilling the sides of the channel so that it sits flush without the spacer would mean that the backrest channel sits at quite an angle which I think would be ugly.  

Here it is with everything temporarily set in place.

 

Setting the position of the flap actuator angle - 2 hours

 Now that the mid-position of the flap actuator is set, I installed the entire flap assembly to get everything in the right place. I can find the correct angle of the assembly and drill the rivet holes in F-766B angle.

 This ends up being a tricky operation as there is a tad bit of play in the assembly. So I marked the potential rivet holes in the extremes of play in the angle. you will notice that the bottom most hole is consistent in the movement. That will be the baseline to work from. I then chose a final position to commit the other two rivet holes (represented by the black line). This black line is exactly parallel to the pre-punched holes in the F-766A channel. 

I drilled the bottom most hole to 1/8" on the drill press. Clecoed it to F-766A and then drilled the remaining two upper holes.

The other task that needs to be done is to drill the electric flap actuator for the required safety wire. Following the plans and instructions I used a 1/16" bit and drilled the hole. 

 The flap assembly is ready to go together and I began fitting the F-760 covers. 

Finding the half way of electric flap extension - 0.5 hours

 I need to set the half-way point of the electric flap extension. Using masking tape on the inside of the F-766A channel allows me to mark the correct travel and not scratch things up. I have a small 12V battery that I can test the electric actuator.

 

Middle position found.

Started on the electric flap assembly - 3.5 hours

 Its time to get started on the electric flap actuator assembly. I cut the stock material for the  F-766C plate and began laying out the initial hole per the dimensions and then match drilled the rest using F-766A as a drill guide.

I'm now ready to open up the center hole to 5/8" with the uni-bit. I secured the piece to MDF backer-board as drilling operations (especially the uni-bit is more precise using it - prevents the bit from wandering).

Everything is looking great!

Next I began the fabrication of the F-766B angle. Initial rough-cuts have been made, the final shaping will be performed on the sanding station and then polished on the 3M wheel.

Next, I cut the very small/short F-766D spacer on the band saw. Working with a piece this small is not fun. Just a little difficult to cut and trim to size. I managed all right in the end. I chucked the small tube in the drill press and used sandpaper to square the ends and trim it to proper size.

I am now ready to fit up the assembly. Fit is really good.