Countersink Wing Spars - 3 hours

I had ordered the new parts (hs-00001, hs-00005, hs-710, hs-702) for the VS#2, so until they arrive I decided to move onto the wing spars. I've been doing lot's of reading on other blogs to ensure I have my steps down right.

First I set up the table by applying tape, to protect the spars from scratches. After clamping both spars to the table, I taped the gap between the spar flange and reinforcement spar to ensure I kept metal filings out. Then I began to match drill the #40 holes that hold the platenut rivets.


After the match drilling operations was complete (I checked holes off as I went). I then began to countersink. I tested and re tested the countersink on scrap and have it dialed in perfectly.

 As extra precaution, I have decided to prime the countersunk holes (The instructions mention to do this on the screw countersinks, but I will also do the platenut rivets as well. I used a q-tip and dipped it in primer)

Nearly completed drilling the HS#2, Nearly... - 8 Hours

I tried to put in another stellar day in on the HS. Everything was going extremely well. I fitted the spars and ribs together. Worked on the HS-710/714 angles. Cleco'd on the skin. 

Began to fit the HS-00005/00006 ribs. Finished the left side and began the right. Then I noticed I made a terrible error. I drilled the hole fitting HS-00005 to HS-710 centered in the angle, not 7/16" down. The hole is too high up and edge distance is an issue. Silly mistake as I was going too fast. It only affects a few parts that I have to redo. Fortunately I didn't drill that hole on the right side, so i'm still ok. Normally I'd be quite ticked off.  

Completed riveting VS #2 - Started HS #2 - 7 hours

I riveted on the VS skin. It went extremely well. Using electrical tape to hold rivets while bucking works extremely well. The VS is ready for inspection. 

I then moved on to the HS. I drew out the HS layout in AutoCAD then printed it full scale, cut the template out and taped it to the part. The result was great. This saved me a considerable amount of time and the placement of lines and holes was surgical. Just like the lessons learned on the first HS. I tried to drill and match drill as much of the holes in the drill press. Results were impressive! 

Began riveting VS#2 - 4 hours

I fitted/riveted the VS ribs and spars. Things started out well, except for when I tried to rivet the VS-202, VS-704, VS-705. This is a very difficult area to rivet without help. I tried to use a straight rivet set, which set the center rivet well, but its short so I could not reach the outer rivets. I tried to use double offset rivet set but the rivet wants to fold to the side. Had to drill them out a couple of times, at which point I gave up. I was fortunate to drill the shop heads off and punch the rivet shanks out which resulted in very clean holes still. I eventually bent the VS-705 up out of the way a bit, taped the short straight rivet set into the rivet gun, and set the rivets.

Note to self....Order a long straight rivet set. Would have saved much grief.

I then cleco'd the skin to the structure. Again...Like the first empennage, its very difficult to get the structure in place with minimal scraping to the skin. I did much better this time. 

Dimpled the VS#2 - 2.5 hours

Spent a few hours this evening dimpling the VS skin and rear spar. 

deburred and primed VS#2 - 3 hours

I deburred all the holes for the VS parts and primed them. 

This time I choose to modify my priming methods considerably. On the last empennage I primed everything with 2-part epoxy and it ended up noticeably heavier which did not sit well with me. Not to mention, I have learned lots about priming over the last year and felt this was a much better option for many reasons.

I've decided to use duplicolor self-etching primer. It's easier and cheaper to purchase. It also allows me easily touch-up any areas that I am working on. Much better than the two part stuff.

The 2-part epoxy covers the garage in an incredible amount of dust.

I live in a fairly dry area and intend the plane to be hanger'd, so the need for corrosion protection is considerably less than if I live near the coast or choose to keep it outside.

Did I mention weight? I have decided to only prime mating parts. The skins will be left nearly unprimed except where ribs and stiffeners meet. The result should be pretty light