Re-frabricating the Fwd Fuselage rib assembly - 5 hours

 Upon part inspection I'm just not pleased with my Fwg Fuselage rib assembly. A few holes for the F-7108A rib and the F-7108B angle are not to my liking. I have some rivet holes that holes that are just a bit too open making the rivet fit sloopy. As well as the holes for the AN3 bolts on the canopy brace were not perfectly square in the angle. Likely cause I reamed these by hand in place. Fortunately, the holes in the canopy brace are perfect as I did my final ream on the drill press. 

I had re-ordered a new F-7108A and spent the entire day re-fabricating the entire F-7108 fed fuselage rib assembly. Re-drilled the F-7108A rib to the firewall, I made a new F-7108B Angle and F-7109 Plate.

 

Making a doubler for the F-721D attach angle - 2 hours

 I just cant bring myself to riveting the attached angle on to sloppy holes, and I also dont want to risk re-drilling new parts through existing holes on the longerons. So after discussing options with a fellow builder (Mike with the Stewart S-51 and F1 Rocket) I figured it best to simply fabricate a doubler for the F-721D attach angle. I pulled out some 0.040" scrap and sketched out a quick shape. I then used the proper right side attach angle to drill new crisp #30 rivet holes. Then using an edge distance of around 0.25" I located two #40 holes to attach the doubler to the forward canopy deck. On initial fit, I see that I have to trim a small angle to clear the inside radius of the canopy deck. Also I need to trim the doubler to clear the longeron.

Once happy with the fit, I committed to drilling the two #40 holes in the forward canopy deck. 

Re-clecoed the forward canopy deck into the fuselage and verified fit. 

I am pleased with how it turned out (not pleased that I had to do it in the first place). I then acid etched the doubler and primed it. After a few hours dry time on the primer, I then riveted the doubler and the F-721D attach angle to the canopy deck. 

 

Prepping front deck parts and a small boo-boo - 3 hours

 I began the process of prepping and de-bring all of the front deck parts for priming. 

 As I was working through the pieces, checking that all edges are filed, and all holes are reamed and deburred. I have to final ream the attach clips on the forward canopy decks. Simple enough, but it turns out I had inadvertently clecoed the left attach angle to the right forward canopy deck and ran the #30 ream through it. I noticed it straight away but not after I got the ream through it....I had ob-longed the holes on the right forward canopy deck.   

I'm scratching my head as what to do with this. Normally I would redo the canopy deck but this isn't a structural piece at all. All it does is help hold the instrument panel. And a new canopy deck will be very difficult to redo as I really really do not want to run a drill bit through the holes all ready drilled in the longerons. That part is structural!

Installed F-6118 rudder pedal brace - 1 hour

 Short day in the garage today. I installed the F-6118 rudder pedal brace.

 As well I also installed the rivet for the top flange of the F-902 bulkheads (These are AN470AD3 to preserve the proper edge distance as the AD4 will blow all edge distances in this super tight area)

Small fixups and installing the brake pedal assembly - 5 hours

 Before I can start prepping the front canopy deck for assembly. I need to put a bit of work into the cabin area and brakes. I did not finish this area off originally as all of the drilling of the front deck results in a bunch of metal filings I didn't want all over the fuel system and brake system. 

 I removed the center cover to expose the forward brake lines. During the original installation, I didnt get one of the plastic retainers installed as I was short 1 half. So, I took care of it. 

 Now...The issue I was having with my brake pedestal install last year is that I had an amount of play in the WD-655L/R brake weldments that would (in work case scenerio) allow the two master brake cylinders to rub against each other. To combat this, I need to install a small washer in the F-6116 bearing blocks to limit the amount of potential movement I can get between the two weldments. 

Last year I had cut a few 1 1/4" dia x 1/4" thick discs out of HDPE plastic. I just need to trim them down to proper size. Using the 3D printer once again, I made a template/guide so I can trim the white HDPE to a tight press fit in the bearing block. One 1/4" spacer is installed in opposite ends for each F-6116 weldment.

Next, I need to install eight AN fittings in the master cylinders. As per the Van's Instructions, I am using a small amount of tite-seal on the NPT threads to help seal them. 

Before the brake assembly is installed. I need to finish final installation of the park brake and the park brake lines.
 

Now I am ready to permanently install the brake pedal assembly. And I can also confirm the 1/4" spacers work perfectly as it prevents any lateral movement in the assembly causing the master cylinders to touch together.  

Final fitting the WD-643-SS canopy brace - 2 hours

 With the canopy brace fitted into position, I was ready to drill the holes for the AN3 bolts. I first drilled the holes to #19, and then reamed them to 3/16" 

After the holes were drilled. I began marking the lower portion of the tab so I can remove the excess material. The blue line represents approximately 3/8" edge distance while the adjacent (first) red line is the edge of the 3/4" angle, the red line on the far right is just an extra amount of material for good measure. That is my trim line. 

Fitting the WD-643-SS canopy brace - 2.5 hours

 Drilling the top most bolt of the canopy brace is going to be fun. How to drill a hole through the center point of a round tube on a receiver in the roll bar that is only half round. Honestly I don't know how I would have done this without a 3D printer.

 I designed a cap that installs over the roll bar receiver and with #40 pilot holes for the mounting bolt. Working in CAD I can align the proposed mounting holes perfectly in a round tube and then just have to project those out to suite the half round receiver. 

 

I checked the positioning of the pen marks and confirmed everything was square. Now...How to drill the hole. There is no doubt that if I drill these by hand the hole will be terrible, but there is no way I can drill them in a drill press. So the 3D printer to the rescue, I can just add on a drill guide to my cap design.

The drill guide makes a prefect and perfectly aligned pilot hole. 

Using the 3D printer again, I made a small saddle that allows me to get a nice tight fit of the brace into the receiver. 

 

Once the brace is drilled to #40 using the pilot holes in the receiver. It is extremely quick and easy (and accurate) to up-size the hole to #30, #19, 3/16" and finally 1/4" for the AN4 bolt.