Completed riveting Left Wing Skeleton - 2.5 Hours

I riveted the rear spar to the left wing skeleton. Everything went pretty uneventful. I used the flush rivets in the end outboard rib. The rivets are set well, but the rib has a very slight distortion. It's perfectly fine as the material is tight around the rivet, but the outside edge of the rib flange wants to site just proud of the rear spar.


 I primed the flush rivets as the aileron hinge will eventually sit tight against it.

I can see why the instructions tell you to place the manufactured head on the thin material specifically for riveting the ribs to the spars. Of course I made sure that all manufactured heads where placed on the thinnest material. The end outboard rib is the only instance where you cannot do that.
It is important to double check the rivet callouts. I find that the Vans callout's tend to be off by 1/2 size. I'm sure that they are just fine for use, but I chose to set all according to the rivet gauge.

Every rivet was set extremely well, just had to drill out and replace one rivet. Sweet!

Fine tuning the wing-walk ribs (Left side) - 3 hours

Well I performed some surgery with some files on the offending rib #3. I cleaned up the edges with scotchbrite and spot primed the needed areas. I let it dry a few hours then I riveted the rib to the spar.
 
On rib #2 I quickly noticed that the rivet also interfered with the rib. 
 
 I also checked rib #1...yup. Slight trimming needed.   

More riveting wing ribs to wing spars - 5 hours

I hung up the right wing as it is on hold till I order a new W-711-L inboard rib. I decided to start the left side. I back riveted ribs #13 thru #10. Back riveting the ribs #9 thru #1 becomes tricky as you have to be very careful not to damage the top and bottom doublers. It was an incredible pain to try to avoid this on the Right wing that I decided to try something different. I set up blocks to help ensure I don't push the assembly off the table. I then set up a block with a clamp as a bucking bar rest.

I have a second person hold the bucking bar as I shoot the rivet. The rest work extremely well for someone that has no experience bucking rivets. It's very easy to ensure the bar is perpendicular to the work. The result is extremely well set shop heads.

I have to do this kind of setup more often!!  

Seems that I have a small interference on rib #3 left wing with one of the spar rivets. I have double checked that I have the correct rib and correct orientation. Might have to do some trimming. Thought I would post it on Vans Airforce and make sure I am correct before I start cutting.

 
 

Started riveting ribs to spars - 7 hours

I was extremely eager to get the ribs riveted to the spars, yet very concerned. I really did not want to mess this one up. I was struggling to figure out how best to do this without a bucking partner. After some thinking, I decided to try to back rivet similar to the way Wirejock (Larry Larson) shows in his build log.

I set up with a sponge under the spar and the back rivet plate with the bucking bar under the rivet that is to be set. This allowed me to get the parts pressed tight together as I shot the rivet.
 

It produces very nice shop heads.

I had ordered a selection of long rivet sets a couple of weeks while ago from ATS as I really did not want to use a double offset rivet set on these (I really don't like the double offset....really tricky. For me it's a tool that I only pull out when I must). I found the 10" long rivet set is the best in this situation. I had taped the rivet set to the gun rather than use the spring as there is less potential for scrapping the ribs when I rivet.

After riveting, on close inspection. I have some spider cracks in the anodizing especially where rivets are set through the Spar web, less so where they are set through the doubler. At first glance it caught me off guard, but a quick search of the Vans Airforce forums shows that this is extremely common and is not anything to be concerned with. (It just affects the anodizing finish and not the aluminum). The forums are clear...it's ok, build on. Update, I called Vans to double check that this was not going to be an issue and they confirmed that it is alright. Build on

Just before I decided to call it a night, I slipped of the rivet on Right Wing rib #4 and put a smiley in the rib. Grrr...Every thing was running smooth. I decided to remove the rib and replace it with new. I have to put in a big order soon for more cleco's, conduit, flop tubes, etc. so I will order the replacement rib then.
 

Completed priming wing ribs - 7 hours

Worked hard to get the priming completed for the ribs. All done just in time for company to come over later in the evening.

Completed drilling Ribs for wiring, started priming - 6 hours

I went back to the drawing board with the wing wiring. A bunch of time was spent last night researching on the internet to ensure my wing wiring would be ok. This morning, I headed out into the garage to open up the tool holes in the right wing ribs (1 thru 10) this will likely be spare or contain alternate auto pilot or OAT wiring.

Here is the completed layout.
 



I then set up and began the priming process. I set up the tubs and washed each rib in soapy water, scuffed with scotch brite. Rinsed. Dried. Wipe with degreaser. Wipe with MEK. Prime. Labor intensive but I am pleased with the results. Managed to get nearly the right wing ribs done.