Proseal round 1 - 6 hours

Well the dreaded day starts. The very first attempt to work with proseal. Glad to get this going...Im a little past half way on the shelf life of the proseal. It's only good for 9 months after the date of purchase and I bought it back in January.

I needed to clean the skin, so I gave it all a good rub down with MEK. Next I used a acid cleaner/etcher called Clean-Brite 218 (mixed at about 15% strength) From www.chembrite.ca

Since the chem-brite is a powerful acid, it etches the aluminum and takes the mirror finish away and leaves the aluminum a bit cloudy in appearance. But it is instantly noticeable that the aluminum is clean and etched. It's also apparent that it has also cleaned the dimple holes as its run through the rivet holes.

Everything gets a wipe down again with a clean cloth, and then another once over with MEK.

Well I will say this. Mixing proseal up is a breeze. Just weigh the parts out (10:1) according to my components. and mix. I have jumbo craft popsicle sticks that I bought at Michaels craft store. Worked like a charm. Applying the proseal is a bit tricky with popsicle sticks.

I tackled the fuel filler cap first. I was sure to figure out my rivet call outs before starting proseal. I also grabbed to vent clips and put them in a visible location so I would not forget them.

(really hard to proseal and take pictures at the same time) so sorry....few pictures.

I used a toothpick to place proseal in the rivet holes. I then placed tape over the rivets and flipped the skin over. I backbuttered the skin and flange and installed the assembly. I then back riveted the fuel flange. made sure the vent clip was in the right place.

Once I was done, I painted a layer over top of the flange with proseal. I then bent the vent clip into position and touched up with proseal.

I cleaned up the proseal around the rivets with polywipes (available from Aircraft spruce). The wipes are fairly dry and to a great job of removing proseal. The fact that the wipes are dry is good since it mitigates the worry of compromising  the proseal under the rivet head the way a wet MEK soaked rag may do.

Since I had a small amount of proseal left, I completed the right tank access anti-hangup bracket.


Ready for more....I decided to jump into the tank access rings. I used the same method as the fuel flange. Back buttered both pieces.

but then...this is where things get a bit ugly. I had posted a questions on Vans Airforce about how much of the NAS nutplates that I needed to encapsulate with proseal (as the manual states that I can leave the standard nutplates non-prosealed. The consensus was to seal them up. So I back buttered the top of the stiffener ring, cleaned out the screw hole, placed the NAS nutplate on and tried to rivet. Riveting these things is really tough. I cant really backrivet due to the tight clearance of the rivet to the nutplate body. So I elected to use the squeezer. Again....clearance is really tough and there is potential to not get a good seat on the rivet with the dies. I managed to screw up a few rivets and had to drill a few out. Not fun with proseal already on. Lots of cleaning and inspecting.

Once all was done and I was happy. I then set to work at sealing up the NAS nutplates.

I spent a good deal of time cleaning up the messy proseal to a point where i was happy with the end result. Not pretty but it's sealed well!!!