Priming Left leading edge ribs - Finished stall warn assembly - 3.5 hours

I managed to spend a good amount of time in the garage tonight. I had set up the washtubs to use the Chem-brite 218 that I had bought a few weeks ago. The process was simple. Scuff with scotchbrite, wipe with MEK, Bath in Chem-brite, rinse, wipe with MEK and Prime. Sounds like a lot of steps but it's very quick and the chem-brite acid does a great job.






Now that the ribs are drying, I moved onto finishing the W-432 joint plate nutplate riviting. All went extremely well and quick.

Then...I was back riveting the stall warner assembly.

Assembly of the stall warner is a little tricky. you really have to pay attention to the washer thicknesses. It matters and on the first round I didn't get it right. So a quick disassemble and reassemble and I was finished.

It works pretty slick.

Need a break from the fuel tanks, To the leading edge - 2 hours

Just need a break from the tanks. I just feel like I need to make bigger steps so I have decided to move over to the leading edge. I'll finish the stall warn device and leading edges and rivet them up. Just good to get on to something different.

I had picked up some aluma-brite 218 on the advice of another builder and I've been dying to give it a try, So after deburring, scuffing, and dimpling I set up and applied it to the stall warning assembly and the splice plates. It does a pretty good job. As soon as I wash it off it is apparent that it works. Water sticks well to the cleaned surface...very nice.

I then primed the pieces. I choose to use the 2-part epoxy as it stands up to abuse better than the self etching stuff, so I used it on these parts. (I will also use it on the leading edge nose)

Stall Warn System - 1.5 hours

I'm waiting on my hinge to finish the fuel tank trap door, so I decided to move back onto the stall warn system now that I have all the needed odd drill bit sizes.

I opened up the holes in the leading edge to #10 and then used a dremel with cutting disk to carefully cut the slot. Then I used a dremel with 600 grit on a mandrel to polish the opening.
 

Then I match drilled the mounting holes and countersunk the holes. I deburred the leading edge bracket and dimpled the holes. Took a little time to fiddle with the countersinks to get them right. All that I need to do is prime the parts and start assembling.

Stall Warning Hatch - 2.5 hours

I started in on sorting out the Stall Warning hatch. I little bit of thought goes into as the kit is designed to be an add on to an existing plane, but there a few steps that you can skip as they are not applicable. The supplied template is just scrap because the left leading edge is prepunched with the correct hole locations.



Not much to report for the hatch. The holes did not need match drilling (I made sure for each hole anyway) so I buffed the holes, deburred slightly, and dimples for the screws. I then went to work on countersinking the holes for the rivets that hold the platenuts. These are done by hand with the deburring tool and take some time to fool around with and get right. I DO NOT want to countersink too far. I opted to use the NAS Opps rivets for these rather than dimple them.


I did a trial fit of the hatch cover over the area, and I must say that there is quite a gap all around. Not sure that I am too keen on the fit. Maybe I need to make a new custom hatch??

Started the stall warning assembly - 1 hour

Another stellar night of little progress. I decided to jump into the stall warning assembly. I cut the mounting brackets and made sure I was working on the correct piece. I trimmed, deburred and cleaned up the edges on the mounting bracket.
 
Step 2 - Match drill #10....Ahh Crap. I do not have a #10 drill. Reading a bit further...Match Drill #31. Yup...Don't have that either. 


Isn't that the way it goes. I just put in a huge order yesterday...and totally missed these.
So I decided to never have this particular issue again cause it keeps rearing its head....I ordered the 1-60 drill set from Cleveland.