Monday, February 16, 2015

Worked on This and That - 7 hours

Today was the first big day on the plane in quite a while. I managed to order a few needed parts and tools last week, which put me back on track for the project. First off I got to work on the VS808pp spar doubler. This section has given me a bit of grief for a variety of reasons; 1 - Countersink depth, which is a little bit of a trick to get. 2 - Setting those rivets that are in the VS-410PP brackets that are soo close to the vertical portion of the bracket. 3 - Removal of poor rivets is extremely difficult through the thick material. I've wreaked a piece trying to punch out a rivet, without the use of the handy tool that I was told about after the fact. So...Round Three...Here we go.
I set out by cleaning up the entire piece...Something that I have now mastered. I used a Dremel with a small sanding drum on the holes and on the inside radius's. I then used a file to break all other edges.

I then set up the countersink using a test piece that I have made and dimpled. The correct setting results in a countersink depth so that a 426AD4-X rivet sits just ever so slightly below the surface of the material being countersunk. Note to self: Order more countersink cages!

Now, on to the next piece, The rudder counterweight. Again the original one was countersunk way too deep. Changed the bit on the cage and re-set up the countersink. After much monkeying around, the proper countersink was done. Note to self: Order more countersink cages! I tried to mark out the area where the six rivets on rudder counterbalance rib interferes with the weight. Note to self: Next time mark the six rivet holes on the weight before you set rivets into the counterbalance rib.
I then used files to remove areas of the lead weight that interfered with the counterbalance rib and rivets. I also cleco'd on the horn brace.




Next, I moved on to the elevator trim.  After reading a few build logs about hove everyone notices that the dimension callout of 1-3/8" is wrong (See Electric Trim Assembly Detail on drawing #4). I found that a dimension approximately 1.275" is closer to the correct one. 
The above picture shows how the trim sits if I used a 1.375" dimension


The above picture shows how a reduced dimension allows the trim to sit centered in the opening.

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