Fitting the Andair Fuel Selector - 1 hour

 Since I am waiting for some replacement parts to arrive on the flap assembly. I am moving on to fitting up the fuel selector. I bought an Andair selector a while ago from a local builder. Its similar to the unit that can be purchased from Vans for the RV7, but it has a NPT fuel out, and banjo fittings for the fuel in. 

 

I started drilling the F-983A fuel valve plate to accommodate the fuel selector. I chose to utilize #10 screws as that is the hole size in the Andair fuel selector. 

 

 After drilling the fuel selector, I installed the K1000-3 nutplates. 

Installing the Almost a 14 mod - 8 hours

 I need to install the F-760 side panels on the flap actuator assembly. Its simple enough to install but I notice that I have a slight bow on one of the panels and it doesn't want to sit nice and flush.

I tried to adjust the fit, edge roll the edges of the piece. Finally I managed to get it to sit relatively flat without opening up any mounting holes. That was my last resort. Next I was ready to do the final drilling on the F-785A backrest channel. I clamped the assembly, then drilled. 

I am now ready to officially install the Anti-slat Almost a 14 mod for the seats. I need to cut the F-705J crosspiece out.

 

With the F-705J piece out, I took the time and opportunity to fabricate a template of the rivet pattern.

I also want to have the 1/4" hole on both sides of the endcaps to allow for pitot routing and for wiring. If you are ever looking for information on placement of this hole, you fill find it on Page 317 of the "27 Years of the RVator" From Vans. It was in an article from their build newsletter from 2006. For me, I settled on placing it in the same location as shown in the RVator, and I chose to keep equal distance between three rivets.

Once I have the hole opened up to 1/4" I can now transfer that hole accurately to the F-705D bulkhead sides and the seat mod endcaps. 

Next I was ready to drill the seat mod endcaps to the F-705D bulkhead sides. A WORD OF CAUTION HERE.... Be sure that the end caps are square and level before you drill (use a level and take measurements). I didn't and the right end cap was a little crooked. I'm sure it would have been fine but I'm choosing to replace it. 

First you want to clamp the end caps into place. Make sure that you have a good fit, and the end caps sit level and are square. Using the 90 deg drill, or a drill with a long bit, locate at least one rivet hole and drill to #30.

You can now use the template and drill all remaining rivet holes as well as the 1/4" pitot/wiring hole in the endcaps.

Next I need to cut down the F-760 covers as they interfere with the new center cover. I cut the corners off at 45deg.

 I then slipped the center cover over the flap actuator assembly and noticed the fit wasn't that great. The front mounting holes align, but the side mounting holes do not.

Once I remove the F-767 attach plate, the fit is much better. I have to file a bit off the top of the F-766A channel to get a nice tight fit, but it will work. All I need to do is fabricate a new F-767 attach plate to accommodate the new center cover.

Next I notice that the aft stainless mounting plate doesn't quite fit with the F-785A backrest channel. I have two options...get a new channel, or fabricate a spacer. I think ill do both....I need a new channel as the original mounting holes I drilled are soo close to the new mounting holes for the mounting plate. Also, re-drilling the sides of the channel so that it sits flush without the spacer would mean that the backrest channel sits at quite an angle which I think would be ugly.  

Here it is with everything temporarily set in place.

 

Setting the position of the flap actuator angle - 2 hours

 Now that the mid-position of the flap actuator is set, I installed the entire flap assembly to get everything in the right place. I can find the correct angle of the assembly and drill the rivet holes in F-766B angle.

 This ends up being a tricky operation as there is a tad bit of play in the assembly. So I marked the potential rivet holes in the extremes of play in the angle. you will notice that the bottom most hole is consistent in the movement. That will be the baseline to work from. I then chose a final position to commit the other two rivet holes (represented by the black line). This black line is exactly parallel to the pre-punched holes in the F-766A channel. 

I drilled the bottom most hole to 1/8" on the drill press. Clecoed it to F-766A and then drilled the remaining two upper holes.

The other task that needs to be done is to drill the electric flap actuator for the required safety wire. Following the plans and instructions I used a 1/16" bit and drilled the hole. 

 The flap assembly is ready to go together and I began fitting the F-760 covers. 

Finding the half way of electric flap extension - 0.5 hours

 I need to set the half-way point of the electric flap extension. Using masking tape on the inside of the F-766A channel allows me to mark the correct travel and not scratch things up. I have a small 12V battery that I can test the electric actuator.

 

Middle position found.

Started on the electric flap assembly - 3.5 hours

 Its time to get started on the electric flap actuator assembly. I cut the stock material for the  F-766C plate and began laying out the initial hole per the dimensions and then match drilled the rest using F-766A as a drill guide.

I'm now ready to open up the center hole to 5/8" with the uni-bit. I secured the piece to MDF backer-board as drilling operations (especially the uni-bit is more precise using it - prevents the bit from wandering).

Everything is looking great!

Next I began the fabrication of the F-766B angle. Initial rough-cuts have been made, the final shaping will be performed on the sanding station and then polished on the 3M wheel.

Next, I cut the very small/short F-766D spacer on the band saw. Working with a piece this small is not fun. Just a little difficult to cut and trim to size. I managed all right in the end. I chucked the small tube in the drill press and used sandpaper to square the ends and trim it to proper size.

I am now ready to fit up the assembly. Fit is really good.

Messing with nutplates - 0.5 hours

 I need to figure out the forward nutplate for the F-680 bearing block. I don't have a standard one leg nutplate, but after searching I do have a compact MK2000-3 nutplate. Not going to enjoy trying to rivet this, but oh well.

 

Installing the Flap Actuator Weldment - 5.5 hours

 I'm ready to fit the WD-613-EF flap actuator weldment. In order to start I need to drill the F-680 flap bearing block according to the plans. I made a drilling template to help start the holes in the correct spot. I used a palm drill to start a hole and finish the holes on the drill press.

Next I need to trim the block down on one end.

The bearing block is ready to cut in half. Using a piece of oak as a band saw guide I am ready to cut.

The instructions have you open the clevis ends of the flap weldment to 1/4". I used drills to open up the holes with the final step using a 1/4" reamer. I'm really happy with one of the clevis ends, but the two outside clevis ends, the holes are a bit loose for my liking. It has everything to do with I used a palm drill to do the holes and not a drill press. I will order a new one and do it right. (bit of an expensive mistake). 

 Fitting the WD-613-EF flap actuator weldment in the airplane is a head scratch-er. In the end you have to fit one bearing block on one end. Turn it 180deg so the shortest side is pointing up. (see pic below)

Fit the weldment into the plane and then you will just be able to slip the other bearing block on the end. Turn the bearing block so the short side is pointing down (see pic below)

In this configuration, the weldment assembly is at its shortest dimension allowing it to slip into the plan. The bearing blocks are then rotated into their proper orientation and then can be bolted in place.

 I need to notch the forward edge of the F-680 bearing block. Using the band saw and going slow does a decent job.

The bearing block can now be fit and once the final location is set, I used a drillbit to dill an initial hole for the mounting bolts.

Finish the holes with the palm drill and a reamer...good to go. 

I am ready to start fitting the nutplates.