Set up the basement with the table, the backplate and the practice kits. Still waiting for the tools to arrive before I can start.
Wednesday, September 3, 2014
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
The practice kits arrive!
Took the empennage kit back to FedEx to ship to Van's. When I got home from work the Van's
Accessories arrived (From Aug 22 order, Two practice kits, and tool box kit,
Boelube, etc...) I took the inventory from the box and set up the table in the
basement. Now...I just have to wait for my tools to arrive before I can start.
Monday, September 1, 2014
Just a quiet day
Picked up a drill press today at home depot. Also picked up
carpet underlay for the work table. it should be the same thickness as the back
rivet plate. Looked into the invoice that was sent with my Emp kit in hopes
that I can submit it to MD-RA. Nope....The invoice states RV-8. Going to have
to wait till I get the right kit.
Friday, August 29, 2014
Yeah!!!..Wait forget it
When I got home from work I cleaned and polished the back
rivet plate. I'm very pleased how nice it turned out. I was careful to grind down the corners so
that it did not gouge the aluminum when it is pulled over top.
I went for lunch and then took trip over to home depot to pick up some sandpaper
and a 220V extension cord. When I got home I had a big surprise. The Empennage
kit arrive from Vans!! But the joy was short lived. When I opened the box and
looked at the inventory sheet...They had sent me an RV8 kit and not the RV7 kit
:( After a quick phone call Vans told me they would ship out the right kit and
contact FedEx to pick up the RV8 kit.
Thursday, August 28, 2014
More tools and primer investigation
I submitted a questions to the Vans AirForce Forum on a back
rivet plate. I asked about cold steel vs stainless steel. I also asked how to
keep the cold steel from rusting. Everyone came back with a recommendation for
cold steel, and most said a light coating of WD-40 prevents rust. So I ordered 3/8" x 6" x 24"
cold rolled steel bar from Metal Supermarkets and picked it up on my way home
from work. Had an interesting phone conversation with the owner of Anderson
Anodizing in St. Albert. I called him looking to see what the charges might be
to have the aluminum alodined for me (I have serious concerns of my abilities
to alodine the parts at home....both during the winter time, and in safe
handling/disposal of the Alodine) His recommendations to me was that he did not
feel that the alodine was necessary. His concerns were more for the proper
cleaning of the aluminum so as to allow good adhesion of the primer. He agreed
that the 2 part epoxy was a great choice and that it would help prevent
corrosion. After reading Vans
recommendations on priming coupled with
my recent conversations. I have decided that MY best option for priming
the interior is a very careful prep and clean of aluminum parts followed by two
thin coats of epoxy primer (the overall weight of 2 part epoxy being a concern
too). I'm glad that I have finally come to a consensus on the primer....It has
been haunting me for the last week!
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
Test Priming Day 3
Woke up this morning and checked the 2K epoxy primed pieces.
No question that this primer is tough! Resists scratches. When I got home from
work...tough as nails (after 23hr dry time). The only concerns that I have had
all day was with respect to metal prep. I phoned a friend who owns a local autobody shop. He confirmed to me that the two part epoxy primer was his
recommendation for the job, however he indicated that he saw no need to apply
alumiprep, but was fairly certain that Alodine was a good idea. He said that is
the process used in aviation that he was used to seeing. He indicated that the process helps open up the
aluminum to accept the primer. I am convinced that it is superior, however I
have serious concerns with applying this method at home. Alodine is extremely nasty
stuff, and the application process requires Alodine to be washed with clean
water. How do I do that in winter? Do I want to Alodine in the house???
I've been looking at Endura Paints under aviation primers
and they have two recommended methods for preping thin aluminum. The Alodine
method, or a Biodegradable method using a cleaner and a Metalink product.
According to the data sheet the metalink is waterborne "Endura MetaLink is
an environmentally friendly, chromate free, pre-bond adhesion promoter for
bonding metal alloys such as: Aluminum (#2024, #5052, #6061, #7071 and
#7075)". The only concern I have is a lot of parts are alclad....not
alloy....So how will this work? Hmm. Geezze my head hurts.
Update - 10:00pm Epoxy test pieces are great. Can't scratch
a thing on them. I have tried to wipe them with MEK and virtually nothing comes
off!
Tuesday, August 26, 2014
Test Priming Day 2
Just after midnight
(about 7 hrs after spray) I checked the primer, scratch test has
improved greatly but I was able to scratch it although considerable pressure
was required (See bottom left corner). I work up this morning and checked the
sample primer pieces. The primer has hardened to a point where it is really
difficult to scrap with a finger nail (See bottom right corner). Almost no
primer was scraped off the aluminum despite great effort. When I got home from work (23hrs after spray)
the test piece was not able to be scratched with a fingernail (see right side).
Only when a screwdriver was used could the primer be scraped. (see center)
After 28 hours, I
tried to remove the primer with a moistened towel. MEK and Acetone took the
primer of the Aluminum very easily. The degreaser took a bit of rubbing in
order for the primer to be removed. Gasoline had no effect on the primer. using
a light colored cloth there was no transfer of dark primer onto the
cloth...Didn't expect that. I
prepped four new pieces of aluminum with Acetone, MEK, Degreaser and one just
plain scuffed and wiped dry. Acetone seemed to evaporate almost immediately,
more so than the MEK. I let the pieces dry outside for a while. Then I sprayed two coats of Spray Max 2K
epoxy primer. The primer application was really smooth and covered well. It
occurred to me that in comparison, the Dupli-color required 2 heavy coats to
cover, while the 2-part epoxy covered a bit better with only one pass. I waited
30min for the second coat. I noticed that the pieces took time to be dry to
touch, after 30min the pieces where still a bit tacky. (Note: The placement and timing of the
scratches is the same as the sequence above.)
After 1 hour, the primer was able to be scratched with a fingernail. It
seemed more like I was removing the top layer of the coat as I could not scrape
down to aluminum. After 4 hours, the
scratch test is similar to the Dupli-color after 24hrs. You have to press
extremely hard to scratch with a fingernail, even then you only seem to be
distressing the top layer....not quite breaking through the top layer.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)