Setting the position of the flap actuator angle - 2 hours

 Now that the mid-position of the flap actuator is set, I installed the entire flap assembly to get everything in the right place. I can find the correct angle of the assembly and drill the rivet holes in F-766B angle.

 This ends up being a tricky operation as there is a tad bit of play in the assembly. So I marked the potential rivet holes in the extremes of play in the angle. you will notice that the bottom most hole is consistent in the movement. That will be the baseline to work from. I then chose a final position to commit the other two rivet holes (represented by the black line). This black line is exactly parallel to the pre-punched holes in the F-766A channel. 

I drilled the bottom most hole to 1/8" on the drill press. Clecoed it to F-766A and then drilled the remaining two upper holes.

The other task that needs to be done is to drill the electric flap actuator for the required safety wire. Following the plans and instructions I used a 1/16" bit and drilled the hole. 

 The flap assembly is ready to go together and I began fitting the F-760 covers. 

Finding the half way of electric flap extension - 0.5 hours

 I need to set the half-way point of the electric flap extension. Using masking tape on the inside of the F-766A channel allows me to mark the correct travel and not scratch things up. I have a small 12V battery that I can test the electric actuator.

 

Middle position found.

Started on the electric flap assembly - 3.5 hours

 Its time to get started on the electric flap actuator assembly. I cut the stock material for the  F-766C plate and began laying out the initial hole per the dimensions and then match drilled the rest using F-766A as a drill guide.

I'm now ready to open up the center hole to 5/8" with the uni-bit. I secured the piece to MDF backer-board as drilling operations (especially the uni-bit is more precise using it - prevents the bit from wandering).

Everything is looking great!

Next I began the fabrication of the F-766B angle. Initial rough-cuts have been made, the final shaping will be performed on the sanding station and then polished on the 3M wheel.

Next, I cut the very small/short F-766D spacer on the band saw. Working with a piece this small is not fun. Just a little difficult to cut and trim to size. I managed all right in the end. I chucked the small tube in the drill press and used sandpaper to square the ends and trim it to proper size.

I am now ready to fit up the assembly. Fit is really good.

Messing with nutplates - 0.5 hours

 I need to figure out the forward nutplate for the F-680 bearing block. I don't have a standard one leg nutplate, but after searching I do have a compact MK2000-3 nutplate. Not going to enjoy trying to rivet this, but oh well.

 

Installing the Flap Actuator Weldment - 5.5 hours

 I'm ready to fit the WD-613-EF flap actuator weldment. In order to start I need to drill the F-680 flap bearing block according to the plans. I made a drilling template to help start the holes in the correct spot. I used a palm drill to start a hole and finish the holes on the drill press.

Next I need to trim the block down on one end.

The bearing block is ready to cut in half. Using a piece of oak as a band saw guide I am ready to cut.

The instructions have you open the clevis ends of the flap weldment to 1/4". I used drills to open up the holes with the final step using a 1/4" reamer. I'm really happy with one of the clevis ends, but the two outside clevis ends, the holes are a bit loose for my liking. It has everything to do with I used a palm drill to do the holes and not a drill press. I will order a new one and do it right. (bit of an expensive mistake). 

 Fitting the WD-613-EF flap actuator weldment in the airplane is a head scratch-er. In the end you have to fit one bearing block on one end. Turn it 180deg so the shortest side is pointing up. (see pic below)

Fit the weldment into the plane and then you will just be able to slip the other bearing block on the end. Turn the bearing block so the short side is pointing down (see pic below)

In this configuration, the weldment assembly is at its shortest dimension allowing it to slip into the plan. The bearing blocks are then rotated into their proper orientation and then can be bolted in place.

 I need to notch the forward edge of the F-680 bearing block. Using the band saw and going slow does a decent job.

The bearing block can now be fit and once the final location is set, I used a drillbit to dill an initial hole for the mounting bolts.

Finish the holes with the palm drill and a reamer...good to go. 

I am ready to start fitting the nutplates.

Fitted the F-785A backrest brace - 1 hour

 Small job today was to fit the F-785A backrest brace. The plans call for a 1/8" space between the backrest brace and the baggage tunnel cover. I used two Popsicle sticks as a spacer, clamped the brace to the F-785A angle and drilled the center hole. There was a nice space left at the top. The brace did not interfere with the inside radius of F-705F.

Once the top of F-705F is leveled, I clamped the top and drilled the topmost two mounting holes using center lines that I drew in before placing the brace.

 

 

More fitting F-748 baggage tunnel cover and started flap assembly - 6 hours

 I noticed that the F-748 baggage tunnel cover needs to be fit with the baggage bulkhead panels installed. When I did this, the baggage tunnel cover fit wasn't great at all. Towards the aft, the very thin skin of the cover has quite a bow to it and a decent gap between it and the floor. I spent some time with it, uninstalling and reinstalling but nothing worked. 

After reading about it on other blogs, seems this a very common issue. It seems that others have simple re-bend the end of the piece and then oblong-ed the two aft mounting holes. Since this is not a structural part I see no reason to do the same.

I set up the piece in the vice and I will re-bend the end of F-748 about the thickness of a popsicle stick. Once clamped and set up, I used a rubber matter to re-shape the bend. Once the mounting holes were filed oblong. The cover mounted to the floor so much better.

Next I need to start in on the flap assembly. I need to fabricate F-767. The plans do not give you dimensions to work with so I imported the shape into AutoCAD. Drafted the part and then I could reproduce the part with the use of a template.

With F-767 fabricated and drilled to the F-766A cover. I am now able to back drill the top most holes in F-767.

With the rough fitment of the front flap assembly complete. I was ready to fabricate the F-785B. At this point I realized there was no need to dimple the two mounting holes in the baggage floor. Im not the only builder to have done this. (I could always dimple the two mounting holes in F-785B - It works...i've tried). but I chose to leave it for now. 

Since the band saw is set up, I began fitting the F-983A fuel valve plate and F-983C valve cover.

I trimmed the valve plate on the band saw and flipped it upside down.