Started leak testing tanks - 4 hours

Now that the fuel tanks have had a good while for the last bit of proseal to set, I am ready to leak test. I was sure to buy two leak test kits. After much research on leak testing, I’ve come to the decision that the best scenario (in my opinion) it to test both tanks at the same time. This removes the every changing barometric pressure from the equation. First step was to rig up the lines that attach the clear tubing to the manometer that I am going to make. Using some short pieces of left over soft tubing, I flared the ends so I can attach them to the vent line connection.

Using a 2x8 piece of lumber I drew out a scale and used NMD90 (loomex) wire stables to secure the clear plastic tubing to the board. The marks were made at 1” gradients. I know have a large manometer. 
 
Next I took everything to my basement storage room where everything could sit and be left untouched. I then connected the fuel tanks to the ends of the manometer using two tubing clamps each (want to make sure all connections are tight). I then used some green food coloring to dye water and poured that into the manometer. I was sure that both tubes (left and right) where at equal levels. Then taking a small hand held bicycle pump I began to pump up the tanks to pressure. There is a limit to how many inches you can pump to, I’ve decided to keep things just under the recommended limit and stuck to 23”. Now since i’ve constructed my manometer so the tubing route goes down to the floor and then up.....every inch that is shown on the scale, actually represents 2” since the pressure makes the water move 1” down on the side and 1” up on the center. 
 
 
Straight away I could see that the levels where not staying put. I suspected that my Schrader valves at the fuel drain port where leaking. I used soapy water solution to check that area and sure enough they were leaking. After doing some reading, I removed the valves and applied some tite-seal sealing compound that I have (I was going to use this stuff to close the fuel access hatches on the tanks but decided to proseal last minute, glad that I was able to use the tite-seal after all) I re-installed the valves and pumped up the tanks. I double checked with soapy water....yup no leaks. Time to leave it over night and see where things sit. 

Finished riveting the Left wing rivets - 3 hours

Little by little I’ve managed to finish up riveting the wing skins. In retrospect, its a much slower process than every other blog that I’ve come across, however with that said I’ve done all the work solo and I was sure to check every rivet and can say with confidence that I have given it my best effort and I am proud of the quality. No question that once you have finished riveting the wing skins you’re a “master riveter” 
 

More left wing riveting - 3 hours

Just plugging away. Little by little. Working around the pitot mask is a bit tricky. Just more angles to work around with your hands. Progress is slow, but the rivets are nice.  One thing is for certain, this installation makes for a very solid pitot mount.


Here is a look at the inside mounting of the pitot bracket to the stiffener. I used bolts so all that is need to do is drill out 5 rivets and remove two bolts that hold the mast to the stiffener, and the pitot mast slides out of the wing. Without the stiffener the pitot mast is not very solid.

Misc wing riveting and more riveting the left wing skin - 4 hours

My order for cherry rivets have finally arrived allowing me to set the final rivets in the aileron brace. Since I have installed the Van's S.B. stiffener on the rear spar, the ability to buck the AD rivet in the rear spar at this location is near impossible. Ive chose to use cherry rivets in this location for their superior strength. Below shows how nice the cherry rivet clears the stiffener when set.


A bit more riveting on the left wing skin.



Here a good view of the two wing skin rivets along the rear spar that when the Van's S.B. stiffener are installed are impossible to buck. As an alternate I have just used MK-319 pull rivets for these two spots.

More wing skin riveting - 1.5 hours

In order to set the rivets closest to the access holes, I found that squeezing these does the best job. I just spent a little time this evening setting those rivets as well as a few more.
 
 
 
 

Installed the Fuel Senders and tank access plates - 7 hours

Big day on the fuel tanks. I was sure to test the float type fuel senders with the multi-meter and ensured the fuel senders are reading correctly. ~30ohms to ~240ohms.


Next I prepared the #22 gauge wiring by soldering the ends of the wire. Then I installed the appropriate ring terminals with the crimpers.

I had given some though to my wiring selection and I have decided that all of my ground wiring on the plane will be green. This is to help with organization of wiring and also because in my work in electrical engineering....green is always a ground.

I mixed up proseal and then applied it to the flanges of the fuel sender and the access plate. I used the cork gasket in the access plate as a sacrificial piece if I ever needed to cut into the tank. To install the screws, I applied proseal to the head of each screw. This will help ensure a good seal. The only screw that I did not do this to was the screw that hold the positive wire terminal on the fuel sender. I made sure the screw was clean to achive a good electrical contact and prosealed the entire screw head and terminal.

Completed the right wing tank - 5 hours

Not much to report. I received the needed pull rivets so I went to work closing the right wing tank.