Fitted Aileron and flap braces- 4 hours

Next step needed was to fit the aileron and aileron and flap braces to the wings. I figured that this would be a very quick step, but after initial fitting it was clear that I had to file down some edges as the pieces wouldn't fit.

Here the aileron brace interferes with the left wing aileron bracket.

 I took out the file and went to work.

The right side is very close too, so I filed it down.




The left wing flap brace needs a little bit of tailoring to fit with the spar doubler.

All good to go to start match drilling holes.

Riveted the Aileron Hinges to the Wings - 6 hours

I was battling between wanting to get the aileron hinges on and holding off. I do not like setting rivets through thick material purely because if you mess up, it's murder getting them out. I finally worked up the nerve to give it a go.


I used the gun and bar on the inboard hinge. Everything was going well. I used the pneumatic squeezer to set most of the rivets on the outboard hinge.





And then the other wing.


And then disaster stuck. I notice on the first wing that I had mashed the factory head on one of the rivets with the rivet set. It happened because there is very tight clearance between the shop head of the one rivet and the rivet set. So ultimately I choose to drill out the rivet and try it again. So drilled of the head, and do you think it would punch out....heck no. So I had to drill it out. this ended up with not a perfect hole...not bad, but not perfect. Tried to set another rivet, but it folded over. Crap...Here we go. Again, drilling off the head, it wouldn't punch out. Had to drill it. this time the hole was just not right....sigh. I have to go to an AN5 rivet. So I drilled it and then tried to buck the AN5 rivet. And it began to fold....CRAP. so I stopped. Of course I noticed that I put a smiley in the work. Oh man this is going downhill fast. So, I dug out my dremel with the buffing wheel and tried to smooth out the smiley. I then spot primed the area. Dug out the alligator squeezer and tried to set another AN5 rivet. It set....not perfect, but good enough. This was a very stinging experience and my stomach was a bit in my throat.


I sent pictures to an AME friend and he agreed, its not perfect but it will do just fine.
Ahh...Tough day in the shop!!

Preped Aileron Parts - 5 hours

Big day of little progress. I cleaned up all the edges of the Aileron stiffeners, ribs, spar and the flap and aileron braces. Lots of work to be done. I started on the stiffeners first and ran them through the sanding station with 120grit paper to get them to the right size.  Next I ran them through the 3Mwheel and they turned out perfect. There is a lot of stiffeners so it takes time.

Next I used the file to break all the edges of the braces, ribs and spars by sliding it along the edge and eventually evening out the edge. I used a round file to even out the round lightening holes. It goes fairly quick, but it leaves sharp edges. So a quick run through with the 3m wheels makes them smooth. Again...sounds quick, but in actuality, lots of time was spend on them.

Finished the right flap - 6 hours

I dove into the right flap feeling confident that I had the knack, and boy was I flying. Again, had the odd rivet to drill out..maybe 2 in all if my memory serves me. It was very easy to reach all the rivets with that thin tungsten bucking bar. Again, the fact that the one end is taped up really saved the day and helped greatly with setting the rivets straight.



Unfortunately I really had some difficulties squeezing the rivets in the end rib. They just wanted to fold over (even when the length was correct). I was using the no-hole yoke and I have to say from past experience, it can be temperamental. Some days it sets just fine, other days not so much. Today it wasn't working well. I had to drill out and re-set a bunch of them, only one hole (top side at the very bottom) I had to drill out a couple times, and ultimately I decided to use an MK-319-BS rivet, which is a tad annoying cause on the left flap I actually was able to set a solid rivet there. 

Completed left flap - 3 hours

Now that I have some rhythm to bucking the flap rivets, I managed to crank out the bottom side of the left wing in no time. Everything went extremely well, again only had to drill out the odd rivet and re-try. 


But, just as I was nearing the finish line setting the last couple of rivets, wouldn't you know I let the gun slip and I've put a dent in the bottom of the flap skin. Ahh, stings. It's not structural, just cosmetic....but still not what I wanted. A little super-fill from aircraft spruce and primer and all will be just fine in the end.

I finished off the flap by using the squeezer on the end rib rivets and I was done.

Started assembly of the left flap - 3 hours

I started in on riveting the left flap. took some time to figure out best how to rivet and fall into a groove. But in the end my thin tungsten bar was the best. I quickly figured out that if I taped up the one end it would allow the bucking bar to sit high up off the work and would allow me to ensure that it was sitting parallel with the skin in such a small tight space.

I managed to set the top side, only had to drill out the odd rivet.


I used MK-319-BS rivets in those areas that you just cant buck. I use electrical tape to help prevent scratches when pulling the rivets. It works great.

Prep'd Flap skins for priming - 6 hours

Bit of a long day for the flaps. I had to debur the flap skins. Once that was done, I scuffed with scotchbrite. Next step after that was to dimple all the holes. Mindless work but sitting in front of Netflix while doing it passes time easily. I was sure to edge roll the flap skin where it mates with the bottom skin before dimpling.

 
Once all was ready, I took the pieces outside, wiped everything down with wax and grease remover, MEK and then primed. I decided not to acid etch these as it is quite a bunch of work and since the flaps are easily replaceable if needed I took a chance.
Later that evening after the primer had a few hours to dry on the skin, I mixed up some 3m 2216 structural epoxy to use as a liquid shim between the flap ribs/rear spar. I didn't need much of a shim at all (about 0.010") so the liquid shim will be just fine.

It works pretty good as it sets up incredibly well after about 8 hours ....however, one thing I didn't count on in its amazing ability to destroy a cleco.