Build Wing Stand - 10 hours

Managed to put in a really big day. Started the morning by going out to home depot and picking up all the needed supplies to build the wing stand. I decided to go with 2x4's and sandwich the layers with glue and screws. I thought that would be the best defense against twisting short of going with steel. Everything was checked with a level as I went. Wow my floor is uneven. Had to account for that by shimming the stand. The frame ended up extremely sturdy.



I managed to get the end supports up using 2"x2" aluminum angle and 1/2" ready rod. Very thick, but heavy duty for sure. Once the supports where leveled and an tightened. I hung the wings.

EDIT: (July 9, 2016) Having worked with the stand for some time now this is my thoughts on the wing stand structure. It's not the most efficient setup...I have to climb under the structure to access between the wings. Access to the end (inner) ribs is limited, I have to drill with the 90 degree attachment and use stubby cleco's. I also have to take the wing off the stand to countersink and dimple those end rib locations. However....given that I need the space in the garage, this is a totally workable situation.

Completed riveting the right wing rear spar - 2 hours

Completed riveting the right wing rear spar to the wing skeleton. All went well. Thank goodness.

Completed riviting left spar ribs - 2.5 hours

I riveted the new rib onto the right spar as well as the few remaining ribs. I then cleco'd the rear spar on and managed to set a few rivets.

Prepped new W-711-L rib - 2 hours

The new W-711-L inboard rib for the right wing (Rib #3) arrived. I deburred the rib, drilled the wiring holes, straighten and flute. Then I washed and prepped, and primed. 

Completed riveting Left Wing Skeleton - 2.5 Hours

I riveted the rear spar to the left wing skeleton. Everything went pretty uneventful. I used the flush rivets in the end outboard rib. The rivets are set well, but the rib has a very slight distortion. It's perfectly fine as the material is tight around the rivet, but the outside edge of the rib flange wants to site just proud of the rear spar.


 I primed the flush rivets as the aileron hinge will eventually sit tight against it.

I can see why the instructions tell you to place the manufactured head on the thin material specifically for riveting the ribs to the spars. Of course I made sure that all manufactured heads where placed on the thinnest material. The end outboard rib is the only instance where you cannot do that.
It is important to double check the rivet callouts. I find that the Vans callout's tend to be off by 1/2 size. I'm sure that they are just fine for use, but I chose to set all according to the rivet gauge.

Every rivet was set extremely well, just had to drill out and replace one rivet. Sweet!